FAQ

1. I bought the SUPER STREET DAMPER 1 year ago. I mainly just drive to work, when should I get an Overhaul done?

Usually an Overhaul is done after 2-3 years (approximately 3-40,000km). For those who drive a lot, aim for roughly 1 year. Basically it’s done when oil gets in to the piston rod, when the damper becomes softer than usual, after an accident etc. Please visually inspect it from time to time. If your damper is become black from burning or has oil stuck to it, it is about time to get an overhaul. * If you have dust boots, please fold them back when inspecting.
Some hints to prolong the life of your shock absorber, “it is not recommenced to drive too fast when the shock absorber is still cold”, “clean the shock absorbers periodically”, “inspect all the installation points periodically”. When using brand new parts or after an overhaul, it is recommended to drive mildly to ‘break-in’ the parts. During the ‘breaking-in’ period (between 300 – 500km) please try to avoid driving over rough surfaces. * Overhaul period may differ due to the places you drive, the way you drive, and maintenance condition.

2. I am using the TYPE FLEX DAMPER. I mainly drive on circuits, and I feel that it’s becoming soft. What kind of revalving should I request ?

Please set the spring rate, when you want to mainly use it for circuits. After that, adjust the damping force accordingly to the conditions. First, drive the car as it is, and adjust the damping force, if you feel you are not receiving enough force. When requesting revalving, please note down as much information about the conditions as possible. “ What kg spring you use, what kind of movements happens when…” etc. A good example would be like “I drive a EG6 and use springs that are 4k more than the OE, at XXXX circuit. The car starts rolling, won’t stop vibrating and feels very light in high speed corners. The timing doesn’t match when counter steering during a S corner, so I want to make the settings harder” (when experiencing something like this, it is recommended to increase the rebound damping force.) But remember your personal preferences for how hard the damper is or the way you like to drive is very important, so please tell us what you would like to happen.

3. I am using the SUPER STREET DAMPER and when I increased the spring rate, the ride height won’t drop as much anymore. If I don’t want to use a shorter spring, is there any other way to reduce the damper stroke ?

Technically it is possible to reduce the damper stroke itself is possible to do. But, it is dangerous to use short springs without proper preparation. Please make sure to confirm that there is sufficient spring stroke. Please aim to have the ride height at 1G with the spring compression stroke being more than the shock absorber compression stroke. Or, have 2.5 times the vehicle weight with springs, lower than the weight with intended spring’s installed. The vehicle weight with springs is calculated by 1 wheel load (kg) – spring lower weight (kg) × lever ratio, and the spring’s installed weight is calculated by spring rate (kgf/mm) × spring stroke (mm).
Another method is to remove the helper spring and undertake the short stroke machining process. For this, the vehicle ride height will only drop by the helper spring length × lever ratio length. Whichever method you choose, the rebound stroke will decrease, and therefore the inner tire traction during cornering and road surface compliance over rough surfaces will also decrease. Instead of worrying about the ride height too much, please take into consideration the priorities of the product’s ability as well.

4. Is it possible to have short case machining done for the SUPER STREET DAMPER ?

Technically, it is possible, but basically we do not accept such requests. This is because, as a result of short case machining, the damper will stroke more than required and in turn the tire or arm etc. will come in contact with the vehicle’s body before completing the shock absorber’s stroke. No matter how short you machine the case or how much bump stroke you secure, it has no meaning, and will only decrease the case’s capacity. The case length for HA/ HR dampers and the position of the ADJ tube, using basic set springs, are designed, with the arm without the bump rubber etc. to be as close as possible to the vehicle’s body without touching it. Usually the tire will come in contact with the body before the arm does, but for some vehicle models, it happens simultaneously. If the appropriate size measurements and weight calculations are not done before performing short case machining, the arm and the vehicle’s body will come in contact during cornering, resulting in a sudden movement or worse, a possibility of an accident.

5. I am using the SUPER STREET DAMPER. How much does it cost for an overhaul or revalving ?

The overhaul cost depends on the condition and/ or amount of damage to the damper. Please refer to the overhaul price chart and examples below.

E.g. 1: SUPER STREET DAMPER S13 – Ft repair work due to accident, and overhaul work.
Condition: 1 bent piston rod and oil leakage, the other one is just dirty.

E.g. 2: TYPE FLEX DAMPER FC3S – Front and rear oil leakage and revalving work.
Condition: Ft – oil sticking to spring, Rr – oil seeping from dust boots.

6. I bought the TYPE FLEX DAMPER (kit w/o upper mount) for my BNR32, and I installed it myself, but the damping force adjustment dial won’t turn more than 10 clicks. I didn’t use a torque wrench, but I followed the user’s manual and I am sure that I did exactly as what was written when I tightened the dial. Can I make a claim ?

First, please call us to confirm whether or not it is possible, and if it is possible, then please send the part to us. All damping force adjustment dials have undergone thorough checks during assembly, and the only reason possible for this situation is that the shaft top nut was tightened too much. (Too much torque was exhibited)
Especially for the Nissan multi-link system, the pressure required to tighten the dial is very low, furthermore a rubber bush is used so the tightening sensation is very weak and it is common to apply more than the required pressure. Other makers such as Honda and Mazda use a M10 size nut, which has a tendency to weaken within the upper adjustment part, and tightening pressure is also easily over applied, resulting in the shaft top deforming. At worst, for these situations, the piston rod may need to be replaced. Please take care of both over applying and under applying tightening pressure.

7. Can I bring my car in for an overhaul ?

Unfortunately we do not have the facilities to disassemble your car, so we do not accept any requests from customers who wish to bring in their vehicle. Please remove the shock absorber(s) at your local garage, dealer or by yourself and then send the part(s) to us. Please understand that we are always making an effort to finish all overhaul work as soon as possible.

8. How long does an overhaul usually take ?

After we receive the shock absorber, we complete an inspection and contact the customer. After that date, we usually require 2 weeks to perform the overhaul. (This does not include the 2 weeks after summer/ winter vacation, golden week, and any other long consecutive holidays.)

9. I lost my user’s manual, so I don’t have my Overhaul/ Revalving Request form. What should I do ?

We have copies on our homepage. Please look for “User’s Manual” and you can make a selection by vehicle make/ model and item. Please print and use the form from the relevant manual.

10. I want to revalve my car, but I don’t know what the standard damping force level is.

Please read the damping force characteristic chart found in the User’s Manual. For those who can not find their particular vehicle in the User’s Manual, please contact us directly.